How to deal with the air switch continuously tripping?

This was the last weekend. There was a total leakage of the leakage protector. Finally, I found a property for another one and the problem was solved. The original is 32A (large enough), changed to a 25A.

Many homeowners have encountered such a problem. The air switch in the house always trips. After jumping, it can be pushed up, but after a while or a few hours, it jumps again. Is there a problem with a certain electric power in the house or what is wrong with the air switch? How much air switch should we choose?

The owner's home appliances include Yuba, water heater, induction cooker, washing machine, range hood, and several lights. Currently, the air switch of DZ47-63 c16 230/400V is used, but the air switch at home always trips. In this case, what kind of air switch would be more suitable for Mr. Wang's family?

The air switch in Mr. Wang's home has a high probability of family showers or holiday trips at night. Therefore, when the power cord is large enough, it is recommended to choose a 4 square copper core wire. The GB 2.5 is a bit reluctant but it can be (not an electric water heater). As for the leakage switch, you can choose 30A (if it is a hot water heater, you have to choose 40A). The above refers to the maximum current of the water heater. At the same time, if the leakage switch automatically trips too many times (more than 10 times a month), it must replace the large leakage switch (no fault trip). After the leakage switch is used for more than 5 years, It must be replaced even if it is working properly.

This has not happened before. Most of them are occasionally jumping once when the load is too heavy. I don’t know how to do it recently. I always have a timed trip at around 6:30 every night, and the power load is not big. What is going on? ????

It is possible that undervoltage protection is working. The new air switch generally has four kinds of automatic protection: 1 overload protection; 2 circuit short circuit protection; 3 leakage protection; 4 under voltage protection, and the last six points is the peak of electricity consumption, the voltage of the old house is lower than the normal value. Especially outstanding.

There are two cases, the touch protector, the reset button of the touch device will bounce, must be pressed to close, which is caused by leakage, and has nothing to do with the switch. The other case is a jump switch that can be closed without having to press the reset button. There is also a situation where there is a jump switch, that is, there is no power, and there is power when the switch is re-divided. This is the problem of the internal contact of the switch. The term is called insufficient overtravel (meaning that the switch is closed when the switch is closed). After the contact, it is also pressed in the direction of the contact, which has a distance of 2 to 3 mm, so that the contacts can be in close contact, achieving good conduction and preventing the contact from heating.

Tripped after a few minutes of air opening and closing (grounding protection under the meter)

A friend found me the reason! The wiring hole on the leakage protector has a wire that is not inserted in the hole. Just grabbed the tight-fitting patch, so the tightening on the screw is also bad contact. When there is a high-powered electrical appliance, it will fall!

First check the open fire line above, see if the line is live in the card!

Calculate your home air conditioner, how much power is the refrigerator, divide the total power of the air conditioner and the refrigerator by 220 to see what the current is! I know if it is empty! If you are not the one who is looking for a professional to help you check the line!

The average household entry line is four square feet. Your air switch is not small. Or is it that the wires you lead from the main switch to the air conditioning outlet are too thin, and the load on the air conditioner is too large. So jump.

The air is small or aging, and it is enough to change the 25A or 32A. If you still jump, you must find an electrician to see.

I am in the factory. When I go to work during the day, I don't trip very much.. Every morning at the end of the night, I always open (I don't know if it is empty, or the leakage switch..) Old jump... After jumping, I push it up and return to normal. After an hour or two, I jumped again.. What happened? (The internal switchboard does not jump and the external jumps..)

Oh, there is a large amount of electricity in the factory during the daytime work. There is no 1.5-meter air conditioner and a small refrigerator in the evening. The overload will not change... the frequency of jumping at night is high. Out of the day... What is the reason?

The reason for your open trip is nothing more than the following points, overload, electrical leakage or electrical leakage, and the open mechanism is damaged. You can check it out by exclusion.

The external line voltage is too high. Leave the problem open.

First, there is a problem with the switch. Secondly, if the air switch is the line overload, if there is a leak in the line of the leakage switch, thirdly, check if the line joint or the terminal is loose and reinforce as soon as possible.

Leakage protector tripping and air switch tripping are not the same, you should figure this out first! If you say that the leakage protector should trip, the load switch should not, unless someone steals your electricity. Focus on checking electrical circuits or electrical equipment for leakage.

I plant dormitory. Distribution cabinet. Total air switch 400A, divided into 7 100A open. All are dormitory buildings. Electricity. However, this 400A is open from time to time, workers are working during the day. The amount is very small. It is always jumping. The beginning of 100A does not jump.

The 400A switch trip can occur for the following reasons:

1. This new switch is simply bad, there are possibilities, but not big.

2. The three phases are unbalanced and the load is concentrated in one phase. This possibility is smaller than the previous one.

3. It is a 400A leakage protection switch, and the line leakage current exceeds the protection value.

4. Some people in the dormitory use poor quality appliances or plugs. This is very common.

5. It is also possible that the switch wiring is loose and the temperature at the joint is too high.

It may also be that the individual line leakage causes the zero line and the fire line to be reversed. Our factory is because the line head contact is not good, the 400 amp total gate should only be overload protected, and each branch switch should be installed with overload protection. There is also a switch for leakage protection, so if any one of the roads is faulty, it can be eliminated in time. In addition, the method of dismantling the direct connection of the zero line is unacceptable. It is your luck to have nothing to do in more than a year. However, there are very few incidents under normal circumstances.

If the main switch is protected by leakage, then the switch with leakage protection should be installed at each shunt control point. If there is leakage underneath, he will jump the shunt switch of the shunt and will not jump the main switch. I have seen this situation too.

Poor contact. Look at the line for black spots or other.

Due to frequent jumps, the internal contacts are ablated, and the contact heat is seriously caused to trip. You can replace the same type of air-opening, buy a second-hand house, this year after simple decoration, the original decoration circuit did not move, the main electrical appliances did not increase Just replaced the electrical appliance, and it has been normal for two months. In the past few days, the total air gap has always been tripped. It can be used when pushed up. It will jump again after a while. All the branches are opened and disconnected, that is, all the lines are not open. Use electricity, total open or trip; ask experts: What is the reason? Urgent! Thank you!

Change to a new one! There is also the possibility that the line contact is not good.

Why do the six households on the first floor always trip in the air? I think that the air is broken. I have changed the new one or have been tripping. Even a water heater with boiling water should not be excluded first. 36A. Initially estimate the problem of aging your power line. Next step by step. I suggest you find a professional electrician better.

First connect the open incoming line, do not connect the load line first, try to close the brake, such as tripping, it is empty. If you don't jump, connect the load cable (remember to pull all the sockets first), turn the lights on, see if you can't jump, if you don't jump, in one test socket, there is a trip, check the socket. line.

Look at the total amount of power in the home that may be opened together, then divide by 220, get the current, and then buy 30% higher than the number of times, pay attention to your home line, if you open If you choose 20a or more, the wire diameter should be kept above 4mm.