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This paper summarizes the common faults and removal methods of locks, drawer locks, and tongue and keyboard locks that are common in life, and hopes to be helpful to readers.
First, the common faults and elimination methods
First, the common faults and elimination methods
The lock is most used in the living room, because the parts are closed in the lock body, and there is no need to install them during use, so the fault is rarely revealed. The locks that are used outdoors for a long period of time will reveal faults such as the lock cylinder and the lock beam.
1, the lock cylinder does not turn
The failure of the lock cylinder does not always reveal the lock that is locked out of the door for a long period of time and is not often opened. The lock is exposed to wind and rain for a long period of time, and the phenomenon of rust and dirt is revealed between the lock cylinder and the lock body, so that the lock cylinder cannot rotate. Before the fault is removed, the key held by the checkpoint should be taken seriously. If the key is the key, confirm the fault and then remove the fault.
The way to get rid of it is to put in a small amount of diesel or fuel. After a while, insert it into the key and try it out. If you can't turn it on, then take some diesel or fuel. During the multi-bubble period, use the key to gently turn back and forth until all the opening and closing. Avoid using excessive force and twisting the key.
In addition, there is also a phenomenon that the key tartar is destroyed and the lock is not turned. At this point, you should carefully look for the destruction of tartar. If the damage is small, you can still unlock it after repairing; if the damage is large, you should find another spare key to unlock it.
2, the key is not flexible
The use of the key is not flexible enough for a long time. You can sprinkle some graphite pen face {green gray} in the keyhole, and then switch it a few times. It is practical to avoid participating in the oil in the keyhole, which will affect the movement of the marbles and reveal the unexpected opening failure.
3, the lock beam does not jump
The failure of the lock beam is mostly caused by the excessive tolerance of the lock beam. One side of the lock beam and the lock beam hole is exposed to scrape, and the rust and accumulated dirt make the lock beam unable to jump.
Removal method: Insert the key into the lock cylinder, turn it to the open position, use the small hammer to gently slam the lock body or pull the lock body with force. If it does not move, you can add a small amount of fuel or diesel to the lock beam, and then gently beat until the lock beam jumps out. After the lock beam jumps out, use the soft hammer to correct the lock beam, which can be used after repair.
4, the key is broken into the lock body
The number of times the key breaks into the lock body is more frequent, and the method of removal should be based on the condition of the break.
(1) The key is broken into the lock body from the root and a section is left in the lock chest. It can be clipped with a small tweezers or with a needle-nosed pliers.
(2) The key is broken into the lock from the middle, and it cannot be shaken. In this case, only the seven-seat cover on the lock body is removed. After the bullet is shaken out, the lock core and the broken key are extracted together, and then the lock core, the marble, etc. are newly loaded and sealed with aluminum wire.
Second, the common faults and elimination methods of the drawer lock
1. The key is flexible when inserted, and the time is not flexible. This kind of end is mostly driven by the deformation of the pin. The deformation of the pin causes the axial gap of the lock cylinder to be too large. When the pin is pulled out, the pin and the lock pin are misaligned, and the pin is reset when inserted, so the insertion and removal are not flexible. The method of removing is to remove the lock, adjust the pin or pad to eliminate the gap.
2. The bucket is opened 10 times and the opening is flexible. After the pump is pushed in, the opening resistance increases. This is a failure caused by the installation. When installing, the locking tongue groove of the upper beam of the bucket is too close to the inside, and the locking tongue scrapes the edge of the tongue groove, so that the opening resistance is increased. Just remove the stalks from the upper arm of the bucket.
3, after a long period of use, the key is not flexible. It can be like a lock, like a graphite pen powder {green gray} or a candle in the keyhole.
Third, the common fault and elimination method of the tongue and marble lock
1. The key and knob are not flexible after the door is locked. The end is caused by the installation between the lock box and the lock body to scrape the edge or the door panel is deformed, so that the friction resistance on the side of the lock box and the lock tongue is increased. Can be solved by debugging the lock box position.
2. Lack of “outside insurance†function. The fault is caused by the key dial being reversed. {The key dial should be pointed to the lock tongue when it is installed}. The division method is newly installed.
3. The lock cylinder is not flexible. Because the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the winter door is large, the lock is exposed to rust and other phenomena, and the rotation of the lock cylinder is not flexible. You can put a candle or graphite pen powder on the key, insert it into the lock to remove the rotation, and increase the lubricating oil of the lock cylinder and the lock body. Do not allow oil to be added to the key tartar or the lock cylinder to prevent the spring force of the bullet gun from affecting.
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